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I'm not sure how to pull him out of that. No dust, fingerprints, scratches, everything is photoshopped out. He does a lot of that, and when we're photographing and making box art and all that, the mindset is the opposite. I think he's having a hard time getting past the product showcase look. He's obviously doing quite well overall, and you should tell him that's the consensus amongst a bunch of very nit-picky people who love to tear each other down.Īnonymous Mon Sep 24 12:28:05 2018 No.643275Īgreed, first thing I said was SHOW ME THE SHAG! The carpet was way too flat.Īlso I get what you mean about surface imperfections. Also, why are the insides of those cabinets glossy and reflective? Very weird. This is a pretty obvious detail he should've picked up on while looking at references, and I'm not sure how he fucked it up. The black plastics on his Atari console and controllers are glass smooth, but the real deal had a rough finish. He also needs to work on being sure he's using appropriate materials in appropriate places. I know it's exciting to emulate a real camera but tell him to calm down with that shit. Photorealism 101 is "bevel fuckin' everything" I see a lot of knife-sharp edges in these that either don't have big enough bevels or aren't beveled at all. This is where his real skills as an artist will show, and where he'll start receiving real criticism.Īnonymous Mon Sep 24 08:51:30 2018 No.643234 Make it complete by showing these assets and environments as part of a greater picture, that tells a story or evokes emotion. I'd like to see him showcasing a real "scene" though.
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Certainly in real homes people do go for that look, and if he was also going for that, perhaps he should study the materials more deeply. Here, I don't like how the cabinets don't seem to have any surface detail to them. It's not difficult to fix, he can look up some tutorials on tiling geometry and bam, done. It lacks depth and the self-shadowing that would result from that depth. I was hoping maybe getting some feedback on his stuff might help him. I've told him get constructive criticism! But he's new and I don't is what it is. I feel like he's progressing at a great rate but he's weird about putting his stuff up for people to see. So my dad recently got into 3d modeling, but he's super insecure about it. A good rule of thumb: Model first Optimize later.Confidence for dad Anonymous Sat Sep 22 20:09:39 2018 No.643076 Good use of these tools should reduce the time spent retopologizing your mesh significantly. My only wish is that there was a way to constrain vertices to the target mesh when moving them, but no worries - after making adjustments, simply use the conform tool to align them with the target surface again. You can model out details, and conform the vertices to your target mesh, allowing you to manipulate and optimize the edges afterwards. (Note that I pulled it away from the target surface so you can see it easier)Īnd finally, remember that you have the "Conform" tool available to you. Which will end up looking something like this. When finished drawing, select the mesh in the scene explorer to finalize it.Īlso, don't be afraid to exit PolyDraw mode and rely on good ol' fashioned modeling for details that would just be easier to model out yourself. I like to start by turning on "Draw On: Surface" mode, selecting the target surface, and clicking on "Topology" mode to quickly draw out polygons, but I do still try to maintain a good initial edge flow. My geometry is often really messy looking when I begin to retopologize a mesh.
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So it doesn't need to be perfect everywhere or conform to every edge since the fine details will be contained in the high poly model. Keep in mind that the purpose of re-topology is usually meant for producing a low poly mesh for baking the normals of the high-poly mesh onto the low poly surface. Although the length of time is going to be subjective based on user experience, there are a few tools to help speed up this process.